05/10/2018 – 07/10/2018
Written by: Ruth & Steve
Attendees: Ruth & Steve
Thanks to family in the area, and a few extra days holiday, Steve and I were
able to ignore the awful weather forecast, and head west for the Dartmoor
On Friday we made the most of a beautifully bright, warm and still day to head to Haytor. Many others had the same idea and we were soon joined on the crag by lots of walkers and tourists (we will be featuring in a number of holiday snaps!), about 50 small children flying their home made kites very very loudly, and a group of 10 beginner climbers who put top ropes up on all the lower graded routes. The crag took a bit of getting used to. We had to rediscover the “joy” of crack climbing and trying to place good gear on granite that seems determined to grab the nut in a really rubbish place. The Climbers’ Club guide lived up their normal standards, with routes seeming much harder than the grade given and both of us backed of routes. Me a VDiff, Steve a VS where the first gear placement was about 5 meters up and doubled as the first proper handhold.
Although the weather wasn’t as dire as the forecast for Saturday, it certainly wasn’t possible to climb outside, so we spent the afternoon at The Barn, a climbing wall near Tavistock. With a combination of slab walls, requiring delicate footwork and their apparent trademark no hands move, and an alarming overhang, all elements of our climbing were put to the test.
Sunday was another glorious day and we headed to The Dewerstone. It is a stunning venue. The crag is right next to a clear bright river, and the crag looms out of the trees. We had the crag virtually to ourselves, and managed to fit in 3 lovely multi-pitch routes: Pinnacle Buttress, Needle Arete and Route B before heading home. Steve still has designs on Leviathan (VS 4c). Let’s hope it’s not too warm at Christmas, or I might be being dragged out again!