Newsletter entries for 2015

July

Lancashire weekend meet

03/07/2015 – 05/07/2015

Written by: Lucy Plowman

Attendees: Brendan, Tony and Lucy.

04/07/2015

This meet was relocated to the Lakes on the Saturday. We went to Long Scar on instruction from Tony’s guide that it was an easy walk in as Brendan had a broken heel. We could not see much in front of us on arrival, so we began walking in with our OS map and an iPhone - it was a very long and steep walk in!!!


Eventually we found the crag. Brendan was the club photographer as he was unable to climb. Tony and myself each lead a route. It was cold, foggy and very windy, so we decided to retire to the pub.

05/07/2015

The second day we managed to do some climbing in Lancashire, went to a fabulous new venue - Witches Quarry in Twiston. Park your car at the crag, 1 minute walk in! Again Brendan acted as our photographer, whilst Tony and I got on with the climbs. Finished the day with a trip to the pub.

We managed to have a sneaky climb on the Monday morning before Tony had to dash off to work, this time at Denham Quarry in Chorley. We won’t be in a rush to go back there due to it being very green and slippy.

June

Dartmoor

05/06/2015 – 07/06/2015

Written by: Ian Tingley

Attendees: Martin, Lucy, Ian, Neil, Markus, Tony, John, Sally, Barry H and Anna ( Saturday only )

06/06/2015

With some attendees travelling down on Friday night and the rest first thing Saturday morning we all,miraculously, congregated in the car park at the Dewerstone at roughly the same time. Weather was near perfect – sunny with the occasional cloud cover -- and everyone had a superb days trad climbing. A complete mix of climbing styles and grades ensued with John leading Sally up a range of easier grade climbs, Tony and Lucy sharing the lead on a variety of similarly graded climbs, Ian and Barry similar, Neil and Anna similar and Markus leading Martin up a series of HVS + climbs that the rest of us could only gawp at. Having said that the grade doesn’t really matter at the Dewerstone – the setting is perfect, the rock is perfect and that’s all you need really for a great days climbing. This was borne out by the “whoop” from Tony as he successfully topped out on one of the classic V Diffs!

We camped at a superb caravan park at Crapstone about 15 minutes drive from the crag – hot showers, great views and the softest grass you can imagine - and all for only £5 each for the night. A brilliant find by Martin! Tents were quickly erected and showers taken before the inevitable trip to a local hostelry for some fine food and ale.

07/06/2015

Sunday dawned an even more perfect day and we all travelled in convoy to Haytor which, for some, provided virgin rock to attack! The first observation was that this crag does not provide the same level of isolation as the Dewerstone. Being only a short walk from a popular car park the rock was surrounded with families, their youngsters happily scaling the easier side of the upper crag to reach the top. Pairings were similar to Saturday, the only change being that Neil climbed with Ian as Barry needed to rest his weary bones. He took on the role of chief photographer instead. Similar to Saturday a wonderful range of climbing grades was ticked off on both ‘Main Tor’ and the adjacent ‘Low Man’ and with Markus, once again, comfortably leading Martin up a range of HVS + routes.

After a quick ice-cream in the car park and a brief stop-off at a café en-route to hold a brief committee meeting, we all safely returned to our respective homes content that we had all enjoyed a superb weekend.

May

Clecy, France

06/05/2015 – 10/05/2015

Written by: Lucy Plowman

Attendees: Lucy, Irina, Martin, Neil, Nick H and Caroline

Overview

Thanks to Martin for cooking all the yummy food!!!

07/05/2015

We caught the overnight ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe, arriving in Clecy around 9am and bright sunshine. Dropped our bags off at the accommodation and went straight to the crag, to make the most of our time there.

Considering how tired everyone was most of us managed to get a decent number of routes climbed.

In the evening we enjoyed a lovely meal and way too much wine.

 

08/05/2015

On the second day, most of us made an early start due to the threat of rain the following day. Again lots of climbing done, mostly on the single pitch sports route. another great day, with the usual evenings activities of eating drinking and being sociable.

09/05/2015

The Saturday started off not as bright, so we decided to venture across the river to do the via ferrata, most members first attempt at via ferrata - all seemed to enjoy it and went without incident. In the afternoon we went shopping, with certain members buying way too many French cheeses and wines!

Most of us managed to get back out on the crag later in the afternoon and get a few routes done before the rain arrived.

10/05/2015

The final day, Irina and myself made a very early start as we only had half a day and we had grand ideas! So we left at first light whilst everyone was fast asleep.


We managed to do an epic multi-pitch ending up off route and on a much harder route. We did not see any of our fellow climbers, however everybody got out and got some routes climbed before departure back to Dieppe for the ferry home.

April

Peak District

10/04/2015 – 12/04/2015

Written by: Ian Tingley

Attendees: Martin, Dave Potter, Brendan, Lucy, Ian, Tony, Ian Mac, Barry H, Peter, Neil and Dave and Frances

Overview

This club meet has almost become one of the foundation meets of the club calendar. Accommodation is booked well in advance to secure the bunkhouse at Mandale Farm – basic but comfortable accommodation all for a very reasonable cost per head.

10/04/2015

Attendees made the trip up on Friday evening with all, without exception, marvelling at the lack of traffic on the roads resulting in extremely quick journeys. A good start to the weekend!

11/04/2015

Saturday dawned, however, with rain in the air and a hefty breeze blowing – the lethargy was noted! The forecast did predict that the rain would fade away by lunchtime so the decision was taken to travel over to Froggatt Edge where, indeed, the weather did improve. Nothing exciting of note happened – the usual array of climbs were ticked off and we all made the best of the window of opportunity to climb.

Saturday evening was held in the bunkhouse with an indian take-away and home cooked food all devoured, washed down with a couple of glasses of fine wine.

12/04/2015

Sunday dawned a wee bit better and it looked as if the climbing could be a bit more comfortable than the previous day. Throughout the early part of the morning, however, the breeze started to gainstrength and, after “another” cup of coffee, the decision was taken to meet up at Birchen Edge to knock off a few routes before heading home.

It is probably fair to say that we only climbed a few routes. By the time we reached the crag the wind speed had doubled, the temperature had dropped and, to be honest, it was just plain miserable. Uncomfortable lead climbing – with the wind doing its utmost to pull you from the rock – was followed by even more misery belaying the second in the cold, strong, wind. All with huge communication difficulties due to the conditions. Even our esteemed leader – Mr Knight – who joined us for a session - wasn’t enjoying the day!

By 2pm it became clear that none of us were actually enjoying the experience so an early retreat wasmade to start the long journeys home. It was warm and sunny when I got home to Eastbourne ….

February

Lake District winter meet

06/02/2015 – 08/02/2015

Written by: Brendan

Attendees: Brendan, Lucy, Martin & Russell

Overview

Four members went to the Lake District. Three of which it was the first time winter waking with crampons and axes.

07/02/2015

On the Saturday the group walked up Striding Edge to Helvellyn. On the way Lucy managed to get her crampon wedged into a rock and Brendan had to use his axe to hammer her boot out. The group walked 9 miles before retiring back to the cottage for too much food and card and board games.

The weather was fantastic with blue sky's and a cloud inversion on the way up. Light winds and great snow conditions were found at the top.

08/02/2015

On the Sunday the group climbed Sharps Edge to Blencathra. Shorts and tshirt weather were found when out of the cool breeze.

Another great day out with blue sky's using alpine skills in the Lake District.

Later a fun drive home with Chorley cakes, Car bingo and Krispy Kremes.