Newsletter entries for 2012

July

Cancelled - Wye Valley

06/07/2012 – 08/07/2012

Written by: Neil

Overview

Due to really bad climbing weather (lots of rain) this meet to had to cancelled too! Although a lot of the members who were going on this ended up in the Reading climbing centre instead.

Swanage day meet

22/07/2012 – 22/07/2012

Written by: Neil

Attendees: Neil, Lucy, Wendy & Leon

Overview

Due to the large number of cancelled meets we had up to this point we added this day meet in hoping that we’d be able to get some climbing in and luckily the weather held up and we managed to have a nice day down at Subluminal at Swanage. We managed to get a good number of routes done and a couple of members push their leading grades up a bit higher and were quite confident and able in doing so.

June

Cancelled - Clecy, France

01/06/2012 – 05/06/2012

Written by: Neil

Overview

Unfortunately this meet had to be cancelled as a large enough number of members were not able to commit to a date to make it worth doing a club trip. As an alternative though a few members headed up to the Peak District to climb instead.

May

Pembroke

26/05/2012 – 27/05/2012

Written by: Neil Nand

Attendees: Neil, Sarah, Martin, Tom, Joel, Tim, Brendan & Lucy

Overview

The Friday was just spent travelling up to the campsite and setting up tents.

Porth-Clais — 26/05/2012

We climbed here for the first day as it was only about 5 minutes away from the campsite (possibly less) although a few of us did walk past it and had to walk back a bit so made it a little longer. With us being so close to the climbing we managed to get a lot of it in without a really early start.

The climbing was great on a nice slabby bit of rock with a good range of grades but nothing super hard (E1 was the hardest) but was a bit awkward to get to, it involved an abseil then a jump to avoid the water directly below the abseil point and make it to rock. To get across from the abseil most people had to be pulled across by someone already down there and anchored down so they didn’t fall in, pretty sure the first person down got a bit wet. Luckily as the tide went out during the day it became a lot easier to make the jump across. Also made getting to the first move of a climb a bit tricky, had to be quick while the water was low to get up & stay dry!

Unfortunately Tim did have a bit of a problem with nuts that day, first dropping a few lose ones in, then all of them and I’m pretty sure a few of someone else’s, luckily they’re heavy enough to not float away and after a few attempts he managed to retrieve them all.

After climbing on the slab we went a little further across and down climbed to a set of more vertical climbs which again were not particularly hard but really nice.

Craig Caerfai — 27/05/2012

Before going to Craig Caerfai we went to an area for Joel, Tim & Tom to go deep water soloing (DWS) which was much further away than the first day, apparently only 2km but it turned out to be around 4miles! Mainly headed here first to wait for the tide to go down at Craig Caerfai.

After watching them DWS (and fall in) we headed to Craig Caerfai and got a few climbs in before heading back to the campsite to pack up and head back home.

April

Easter trip to the Peak District

06/04/2012 – 09/04/2012

Written by: Neil

Attendees: Neil, Martin, Ian Mac, Barry, David, Gareth, Joel, Ian, Chris, Tom, Amber, Tony

Overview

This was a great climbing trip although very cold! Still snow on the ground when we arrived (luckily the routes were clear & dry) but the walking up to the routes and the tops where still covered. The upside though was that it was to cold for the midges to be there and apparently to cold for people as most of the crags were empty.

Arrival & Climbing — 06/04/2012

This was mainly a day of people driving up to the accommodation but about half of us managed to get there there early enough to have a decent days worth of climbing at Birchen. We were quite lucky to make it there as Chris had tried to head up a few days earlier and the road were closed due to the snow & ice.

Rivelin — 07/04/2012

The very cold wind had certainly picked up today so we decided to climb at Rivelin as it should be more sheltered, and it was. Lots and lots of nice climbs were done and it wasn’t to busy due to the weather but unfortunately someone did take a fall on Altar Crack, no injuries although a very damaged rope!

Wharncliffe — 08/04/2012

Another really cold windy day of climbing at Wharncliffe but we still managed to get lots done, I did manage to get a cam stuck though :( . Joel even lead his first E3 (Banana Wall E3 6a) after giving it a go on a top rope, although his reasoning for climbing the E3 was that the E1s & E2s looked to hard.

March

Cancelled - Lake District long weekend

01/03/2012 – 01/03/2012

Written by: Neil Nand

Overview

No specific date was actually set for this as it had to be cancelled due to member being unable to commit to a any date around March.

Portland weekend

23/03/2012 – 25/03/2012

Written by: Neil Nand

Attendees: Neil, Caroline, Dave, Jeremy, Pete, Sarah, Tim, Esme, Martin, Hanna, Joel and Tom

Overview

This meet wasn’t originally scheduled to happen but a few members who meet up regularly at the Chichester climbing wall came up with the idea of having a weekend meet away at Portland and as the weather getting good so we added it to the list of meets.

Arriving — 23/03/2012

This day for most people just involved driving down in the evening as we had the caravans booked for the Friday and Saturday night so everyone wanted to get there on the Friday night to make use of them and avoid waking up incredibly early on the Saturday too meet everyone as well as avoiding the inevitable amount of traffic the good weather would bring. The evening mainly involved sitting in the caravans, drinking & talking.

Joel, Tim & Tom did manage to make it down during the day but due to traffic didn’t reach Portland ’till the afternoon and got some climbing done around the Battleship area.

Blacknor — 24/03/2012

This was the first day everyone went climbing and as a few people had either never climbed outdoors before or had only recently started climbing most of us headed down to the triple slabs area, a few others stayed at the top in blacknor central for some of the harder routes including the classic pregnant pause.

A few people who had only recently started climbing lead their first outdoor sport route too (My Little Buddha F2)

In the afternoon the group of us who were around the triple slabs area went further across to diamond slabs to round the day off before heading back to the caravans. Martin cooked up a great chilli beef for us all on the Saturday night which went down very well and for desert we had two cheese cakes and a something else (I don’t remember it) which ended up on the floor, not that it stopped anyone eating it.

Chenye Weares — 25/03/2012

Some people departed back home early in the morning leaving one Martin, Joel, Tom, Tim, Jeremy, Dave and myself. We all headed to Cheyne Weares as it has a good mix of some easy and hard climbs close to each other.

A number of routes 6a and above were climbed including Wedding daze (6B*) and Joel on-sited his first 6c climb!